Leaving West Africa

Joy makes a deal at the artisan's market.

Nov. 29, 2008

Our last day in West Africa -- we're sad to leave but glad to go home. We have been gone 19 days. Living out of a suitcase gets old!

AM

We went to the artisan's craft market in Accra in search of girfs and souvenirs. The merchants are quite the entrepreneurs. "Hello friend. See the excellent carvings I have." "Come to my shop. It's only two doors down..." They are VERY persistent--some would say they pester the shoppers. I'd say they just trying to feed their families. Joy was rather uncomfortable with the whole process which included "dickering" on price. But, with Brett's help, we got some good deals. Joy even got the knack of bartering.

Funny story: Joy, Brett, and I got a laugh over this. a busload of travelers from Finland arrived and the merchants swooped down on them. Later I was out taking a photo (surprised?). The sellers like to "make friends," and one young man said, "Friend, I love Finland." When I informed him I was from the U.S., he was crestfallen! (Not so funny??? You had to be there.)

In fact, that could be said about our entire African experience -- you really have to see it to understand it.

Afternoon

Rest time and some special time with Brett.

Accra International Airport

One final adventure. I mentioned earlier that Ghanaians use any excuse to wear a uniform. Apparently it represents authority and power to them, and they are a source of pride. Sometimes it goes to their heads -- like today.

Brett and April have a routine at the airport. He circles and she jumps out to be sure the flight is on time, etc. April came out as usual and we picked her up at a crosswalk. As we circled to drop us off, about 7-8 "uniforms" blocked our path and ordered Brett to pull over. He did, and they quickly booted his Land Rover. One came to the truck and said we had illegally picked up a passenger at a crosswalk. Brett argued his innocence, but no luck. Brett was informed he must pay 40 CDI's (about $36) or get towed. Brett went to the police station nearby and explained the issue to the chief. He finally walked down to settle the showdown. Still the "uniform" (apparently airport security) demanded that the 40 CDI's be paid -- directly to him. Sounds more like a bribe to me. With the police chief's assistance, the dispute ended. Brett got his truck unbooted without paying the "fine," and the "uniforms" saved face when Brett "made nice" and groveled. Joy was very shaken by the incident, and so we had an emotional farewell.

The next leg

As I write this, we are sitting in Lagos, Nigeria, picking up additional passengers for Frankfurt. Soon we will be on our way. It was 98 degrees in Accra today. Tomorrow it's supposed to be about 30 degrees in Germany.

We are now in Frankfurt. What a marked difference between here and Accra. Modern, climate controlled and the usual German efficiency in evidence. Soon we will be on our way to Chicago -- USA. Whoo hoo!

Enroute to U.S.

Just passed over Scotland. It looks like what I expected except for the snow-covered mountains. We will be over the Atlantic for quite some time. As I write this I am listening to Christmas music -- got to get in the mood; tomorrow is Dec. 1.

(Note: I didn't forget Nov. 30. I'm just not sure when it happened.) I re-set my watch as we pass over Labrador. We have traveled 3245 miles since leaving Frankfurt.

HOME!!

I'm still processing, but some notes and thoughts:

1. One has to admire the Togolese and Ghanaian entrepreneurial spirit. One day two guys stood in the middle of the road with a pile of dirt filling potholes for tips; the street hawkers tried to sell you anything , and they took their lives into their own hands doing it. At some intersections there might be 25-30 hawkers vying for a sale; and then there were the windshield washers -- some were middle aged and poor / some were 9 or 10 and poor.

2. Windshield washers: I'm not sure what is sadder -- a child dodging traffic to earn a tip or a grown man who is probably trying to feed his family. They rarely ask -- just begin washing and hoping you have some spare change. (Brett tipped them every time.)

3. Whoever is the distributor for corrugated sheet metal must be a rich person! Tin roofs, tin doors, walls, even windows (with hinges). Another thought: In the U.S. an old fashioned tin/steel roof was likely a sign of poor construction and poorer owners. In West Africa, a tin-anything is a step or two up from the ramshackle shacks many people must live in.

4. It's more than a little weird (and culturally challenging) to see Christmas decor for sale and Merry Christmas signs at the mall when there is blistering heat and humidity outside. (Yes, I did say mall. Accra has a new, modern Western-style mall.)

5. Just for the record: There are a lot more Caucasians in Ghana than in Togo. A white person was a rarity in Togo; not so in Ghana.

6. I'm just wondering what my brothers in Christ like Jean Marie, Jerome, and Dagaa did today after meeting to worship with their village church? I'm also wondering how Ernest's (the omelet man) son's eye problems are doing. Nestor the blacksmith ... Erique, Brett and April's yard worker ... Brett's friend from the artisan's market ... the Millers, Reeves, and Kennells ... all were part of our lives for a few short weeks. Who knows when, or if, we will ever see them again during our days on earth. But, one day we certainly will be reunited on the other side.

7. Our pilot says snow is in the forecast for Chicago with possible accumulation. What a difference a day makes!

8. Ironic note: After our experience at the Accra Airport, we saw public service announcements on TV urging Ghanaians to put an end to bribery and corruption. Apparently the airport police don't watch television!!

December 5, 2008 / Final reflections

It was almost a week ago when we were in Togo/Ghana's blazing heat. Today it was in the low 40's here. But, there is much more about Franklin, TN that is different from West Africa than just climate. I think it comes down to opportunity. The chances of improving one's living conditions are much greater here than in Togo. That said .....

Tonight we went to a Christmas concert by a wonderful violinist. She concluded with a very nice version of Silent Night in which the audience was encouraged to sing along. It reminded me that there are more important things in life than "living conditions" (translate: having nice stuff and being comfortable). Those of us singing Silent Night know the peace that comes through faith in Christ. So many need to know about that peace -- they are in Togo ... and here in Williamson County. "Peace on earth" should be an inner peace that comes from having a relationship with Jesus. It seems unlikely that the Kabiye people will have much in the way of creature comforts anytime soon, but they can-- and I pray will -- be able to know the Great Comforter.

First Leg Home: Lome to Accra

Friday, Nov. 28, 2008
Departing Lome
It was a descent into chaos, and, no, I'm not being melodramatic! Outdoor immigration stations, hot and dusty ... beggars, scam artists, "moneychangers" (CIFA's to CDI's, "I give you best rate"). A cacophony of sounds -- horns honking, people shouting, diesel trucks idling, children crying ... more dust, more noise, more forms in French -- Joy described it as "harrowing." Nevertheless, we exited Togo in about one hour's time and crossed into English-speaking Ghana. (Side note: the line of trucks waiting to enter Togo rivaled the truck lines at the Ambassador Bridge in Detroit!) Ah yes, English-speaking, far more modern than Togo.
Entering at Aflao
Sitting in the immigration station -- at least it is a real building. Chipped paint, rusty ceiling fans, exposed electrical wires, a hole in the wall, badly worn and soiled chairs, yellowed maps, faded photos and paintings ...and yet on a rickety desk are new Dell computers and officials in crisp, clean uniforms. Certainly a study in contrasts. Yes, Ghana is more modern than Togo, but everything is relative.
The road to Accra
Brett decided to take us the scenic route to Accra so we could see the Atlantic Ocean from the other side. It was generally uneventful though there were numerous "police stops" -- stations where the police stop your vehicle and may or may not give you a hassle. On one occasion, Brett used his "shame technique" -- "I am a visitor in your country and this is the way you treat me?!" (Side note: Ghanans LOVE uniforms. Everyone seems to wear a uniform. Even the door guard at the guest house wears a uniform -- his job: open and close the gate. We arrive in Accra. It is a teeming city of several million with many modern buildings under construction. Of course, a run-down shack may occupy the land in front of it. For example, we visited a brand new modern mall. Across the street were dozens of shanties with open-air shops...
P.M.
We ate at the food court at the mall -- sorta Accra, Ghana, meets Cool Springs, Franklin, TN. The brand new cinema was showing the new James Bond movie. Joy wasn't interested, so B and A went and I chaperoned them! The evening ended with a little excitement. Brett forgot the key to get back in the guest house. The night guard didn't have one, but he gladly climbed up onto the porch roof to knock on Joy's window. Imagine her reaction!! Nothing more needs said.
Did I mention that it's still HOT and HUMID?! Very sultry here on the coast.

Good night!
We reach the Togolese-Ghanan border.

Thanksgiving Day

Thursday, November 27, 2008

Something hit me like a brick wall when I went out at 5:30 a.m. today. It was HUMIDITY! We had not experienced it since getting to Togo because the dry season was getting started. So, the FIRST thing I'm thankful for was the dry weather in Kara. Humidity always makes heat seem even more oppressive. The SECOND thing I'm thankful for is the time spent with Corban and Caden. What a joy! Little ones are work, that's for sure. But, a toothy smile from Corban or a "Help Papa" from Caden is all anyone could ask for. A THIRD thing I'm thankful for is that I am able to write a journal. PD may make that impossible in the future, but for now "it's all good." And for the future, I don't plan to let it cramp my style. Well, I have digressed ...
The FOURTH thing I'm thankful for is Joy (these are most certainly not in order of importance!). I could fill the rest of my journal with reasons I am thankful for her, but that's for another time!!
Breakfast
We were invited to breakfast with some friends of B and A. Besides us, at the table was a German, Swiss, Scot, and a girl from Kansas. She and the German met in Zaire ( Congo). Children were born in Kenya, England, U.S., and Ghana (that would be Corban). It was certainly an international crowd. Most interesting and enlightening.
Random thought:
We are at a Baptist Guest House. Like similar places we have stayed, A/C is optional. If you want it, turn it on -- for 60 cents per hour. Report the number of hours used and add it to your bill. Honor system in use!
10 a.m.
Off to the pool. A very nice private club pool. Brett, Caden and Papa go swimming (instead of watching football). I had opportunity to visit with Roger Stoll, a friend of B and A from Albertville days (language school) and Danny, who is Swiss but now lives in Leeds, England. They are both team members of the same ministry -- Roger in the field and Danny on a "supervisory visit." Great people.
Observation
It is becoming clear to me that churches -- various traditions and denominations -- are far less parochial than in the past. I see it in the Kara team and the cooperative work they engage in with SIL, community development programs, and ministries sponsored by other denominations. My conversations with Roger and Danny reinforced this belief. Instead of focusing on how different our traditions are, more and more faiths are banding together for the cause of Christ. In many ways this spirit of unity is being led by missionaries across the world who recognize the need to work together so the Great Commission can be carried out. Did I digress again? Sorry. I'll get back "on task" after Thanksgiving dinner.
Our dinner was a grand buffet. Lots of turkey, mashed potatoes, stuffing, deviled eggs, etc. -- all the traditional fare.
Tomorrow we are off to Accra. Saturday we fly out for Frankfurt, Chicago, and then HOME. We have enjoyed and been blessed by our visit, but one always looks forward to being home. It seems like we have been here for a lifetime; but, it also feels like we just got here -- it's too soon to leave. What a paradox!
Good night!
P.S. Did I mention is is hot AND humid in Lome?!

Something to be thankful for!!

Gamma and Papa with Caden, Corban, April, and Brett just after Thanksgiving dinner.

A reminder of how much we have to be thankful for. These children were playing in the street (yes, that's a street!) within a block or so of the Baptist Guest House where we were staying.

Thanksgiving Day comes to a close. Tomorrow we're off to Accra.

The Long Road Home

Wednesday, Nov. 26, 2008

Departure for Lome went well -- ooops! Spoke too soon. Brett forgot has family's passports. Fortunately he thought of it before we had even left town. The trip was largely uneventful. Brett did all of the driving (as he has been doing). Driving in Togo is VERY stressful -- very few street signs; in fact, very little signage at all. No road markings to speak of. No shoulders on the roads, even on the National Hwy. to Lome. What there is a lot of is walkers, bikes, and motorscooters. They walk and ride as if they had a death wish! People walking with all manner of things on their heads. (Remember, no road shoulders.). Also, plenty of big trucks broke down for unsuspecting drivers to come upon. (Remember, no shoulders.) All in all it requires constant attention to the road by the driver. So far, no accidents.
We arrived at the Baptist Guest House in Lome about 3 p.m. Lome is a bigger version of Kara with drivers and walkers who are just as careless as those in Kara. After an evening meal, we went back to our rooms for a much needed rest. Tomorrow we celebrate Thanksgiving in a country that does not observe it. Will we be the only ones having turkey and dressing tomorrow?
That's all for now --- Good Night!

Trucks broken down along the National Highway are a common sight.

A dusty detour off the National Highway.

Yes, that's a goat on top of the taxi!

Brett made sure Joy was well supplied with Diet Pepsi. (It's not available in Kara, where they live.)

Papa and Corban at the Baptist Guest House in Lome.

We're on safari!

Tuesday, Nov. 25, 2008

Safari Day!! We were up early to go to the Sarakawa Game Reserve, hoping that the animals would be more active. We were rewarded for our effort -- many excellent sightings of animals. Among them were cape buffalo, eland, wildebeest .... the variety of God's creation is astounding! We were talking about why God saw aaneed for quite this much variety. He must have had something beyond man's understanding in mind. I understand the food chain concept -- little creatures eaten by bigger creatures which are in turn eaten by even bigger creatures .... (but, I digress.) Back to the safari. We had a glorious morning, so cool that Joy was thinking she needed her denim shirt. (First time she's thought about a long sleeve since leaving Germany.) Our driver and guide (and Brett) were sharp-eyed and spotted lots of wildlife. Our last day in Kara was off to a good start!

The rest of the day was scheduled for packing and prep for our Thanksgiving trip to Lome. Joy and April did most of the prep while Brett and I went to the Kennell's new house. Their container had arrived in Kara and needed to be unpacked ASAP. Mark had hired 5 Togolese men and then Matt, Dave, Brett, and I pitched in also. Many hands make light work. The Togolese men were young and strong and eager to work. They often carried things by themselves that would usually require 2 or 3 men. Someone commented that they were trying to show off and out-do each other. Maybe. But, I suspect they wanted to prove their strength and work ethic as a sort of resume to obtain work in the future. I have observed this in the Togolese. Antionette, Erique, etc. are always anxious to handle tasks. I may be reading too much into their attitudes, but it seems that many Togolese live on the edge of survival-- or once did-- so they do not want to squander any opportunity. Whatever the reason, the Togolese I have met have an excellent work ethic. (Again, I have digressed.) The Kennell's container was successfully unloaded in under 2 hours. Brett said the hired men probably were paid about 1000 CIFA which equals about $2. He said this would be a good day's wage for a young Togolese man.

Tomorrow we begin our long trip back to the U.S. We are hot; we are tired; we are richly blessed to have spent this time with B,A,C and C and seen first-hand why they are in Togo, West Aftica.

Sarakawa Game Reserve

Corban: Birthday Boy!

Monday, Nov. 24, 2008
Blogger's note: I have neglected my blog the past few weeks, partly because Brett and April are in the U.S. on furlough. I know when I go to blogs I am following, it is disappointing when it has not been update recently. Now I'm guilty! Sorry, I will try to make posts more often.

The team members came to Brett and April's to celebrate Corban's first birthday today. Joy and I were able to maintain our tradition of never missing a first birthday. This was definitely the farthest we have ever come for one! After a craft and gift opening, we got down to the serious business of cake eating. Corban carried on the Emerson family tradition VERY WELL -- he made a massive mess with chocolate cake all over himself. Great fun!!
By now, it's time "chill out" which is a very ironic expression here in Togo. Some (like Joy) had a little siesta. After a drive around Kara, we were off to the Millers for dinner. The Kennells just arrived in Kara so they are staying with the Millers for now ... let's see, that's eight adults and 8 children. It was a great time of fellowship. The team members are very welcoming and generous with their love and kindness. We have felt like members of the team because of the way they have included us so fully.

Observations
Today we were able to present Antoinette (the houseworker) and Erique (the day guard and yard man) with gifts -- 2 bags of rice and an old suitcase from Goodwill that we were leaving behind. Brett assured us that they would like them, and he was right. Both of them were very appreciative. Their faces lit up, and we truly felt the blessing of giving to others. Our gift to them turned out to be a gift to us also. Erique was quite excited about the suitcase. He told us he would use in when he comes to America!
Did I mention it's hot here? The need for an afternoon siesta is obvious. The heat simply drains one's energy. Brett and April have A/C in two rooms, but they rarely use it because it is so expensive. Their electric bill is more than their rent. Nashville gets pretty hot in the summer, but there is relief with A/C. Not here -- almost nothing is air conditioned. A/C -- another of those things we take for granted. Here in Togo it is really and truly a luxury.
Speaking of electricity: the power has gone out at least once a day while we have been here. It's not always for a long time, and Brett has a gas-powered generator. Of course, gas is something like $6 a gallon, so that can get expensive also.
Interesting note: Today Brett had to explain to Erique about furnaces -- it was a total surprise to him. That's life 300 miles north of the equator.
Good night!

I'm really delighted to celebrate my first birthday.

Mommy helps unwrap gifts -- looks like fun.

Cake in the face --an Emerson family tradition!

Papa and Corban.

April and her boys!
Joy and I with Erique and his family.

Sunday at Lassa Tchou

Saturday, November 22, 2008

Painting day!! Brett and April wanted "anything but yellow" on their long hallway walls. After a visit to what passes for a hardware, we found some beat up cans of paint to mix together. I cut in and Brett rolled. We finished by 5 p.m.

Sunday, November 23, 2008

We are up early today as worship time is 8 a.m. in Lassa Tchou. Brett says this is one of the stronger churches among the Kabiye people. This is due in part, I'm sure, to the way God has directed Jean Marie's life. He is a natural leader, well respected in his village, and a polished speaker. Even though I didn't understand his language, I understood his spirit and his love for God. Of course, it's not all about Jean Marie. The Christians at Lassa Tchou worship and praise God with enthusiasm and emotion. It was a richly rewarding experience -- one not soon forgotten! The Kabiye are a friendly, kind, and gentle people, and we enjoyed our time with them so much. They are a people who do not have much in the way of "stuff", but they are richly blessed spiritually. Makes me wonder how Western Christians can sit still in a pew every week.

Observations

Two firsts for me:

1- warm, homemade beer for communion
2- making change in the offering bowl

In both cases the Christians in Togo make due with what they have.

Have I mentioned how HOT it is?! Thankfully, God has lifted me up so that the heat has not interfered with the experience of being in Africa.

Corban was ONE today, but his party is tomorrow.

Good Night!


Jean Marie preaches to the Christians at Lassa Tchou. They are fortunate to have a building; last week we met under a tree. ( It was a nice, big, shady tree though!)



Kabiye Christians celebrate during worship. One of their songs says,"We no longer have to sacrifice because Jesus is our sacrifice." (or something very close to that. The gospel is truly "good news" to them.