First Leg Home: Lome to Accra

Friday, Nov. 28, 2008
Departing Lome
It was a descent into chaos, and, no, I'm not being melodramatic! Outdoor immigration stations, hot and dusty ... beggars, scam artists, "moneychangers" (CIFA's to CDI's, "I give you best rate"). A cacophony of sounds -- horns honking, people shouting, diesel trucks idling, children crying ... more dust, more noise, more forms in French -- Joy described it as "harrowing." Nevertheless, we exited Togo in about one hour's time and crossed into English-speaking Ghana. (Side note: the line of trucks waiting to enter Togo rivaled the truck lines at the Ambassador Bridge in Detroit!) Ah yes, English-speaking, far more modern than Togo.
Entering at Aflao
Sitting in the immigration station -- at least it is a real building. Chipped paint, rusty ceiling fans, exposed electrical wires, a hole in the wall, badly worn and soiled chairs, yellowed maps, faded photos and paintings ...and yet on a rickety desk are new Dell computers and officials in crisp, clean uniforms. Certainly a study in contrasts. Yes, Ghana is more modern than Togo, but everything is relative.
The road to Accra
Brett decided to take us the scenic route to Accra so we could see the Atlantic Ocean from the other side. It was generally uneventful though there were numerous "police stops" -- stations where the police stop your vehicle and may or may not give you a hassle. On one occasion, Brett used his "shame technique" -- "I am a visitor in your country and this is the way you treat me?!" (Side note: Ghanans LOVE uniforms. Everyone seems to wear a uniform. Even the door guard at the guest house wears a uniform -- his job: open and close the gate. We arrive in Accra. It is a teeming city of several million with many modern buildings under construction. Of course, a run-down shack may occupy the land in front of it. For example, we visited a brand new modern mall. Across the street were dozens of shanties with open-air shops...
P.M.
We ate at the food court at the mall -- sorta Accra, Ghana, meets Cool Springs, Franklin, TN. The brand new cinema was showing the new James Bond movie. Joy wasn't interested, so B and A went and I chaperoned them! The evening ended with a little excitement. Brett forgot the key to get back in the guest house. The night guard didn't have one, but he gladly climbed up onto the porch roof to knock on Joy's window. Imagine her reaction!! Nothing more needs said.
Did I mention that it's still HOT and HUMID?! Very sultry here on the coast.

Good night!
We reach the Togolese-Ghanan border.

Thanksgiving Day

Thursday, November 27, 2008

Something hit me like a brick wall when I went out at 5:30 a.m. today. It was HUMIDITY! We had not experienced it since getting to Togo because the dry season was getting started. So, the FIRST thing I'm thankful for was the dry weather in Kara. Humidity always makes heat seem even more oppressive. The SECOND thing I'm thankful for is the time spent with Corban and Caden. What a joy! Little ones are work, that's for sure. But, a toothy smile from Corban or a "Help Papa" from Caden is all anyone could ask for. A THIRD thing I'm thankful for is that I am able to write a journal. PD may make that impossible in the future, but for now "it's all good." And for the future, I don't plan to let it cramp my style. Well, I have digressed ...
The FOURTH thing I'm thankful for is Joy (these are most certainly not in order of importance!). I could fill the rest of my journal with reasons I am thankful for her, but that's for another time!!
Breakfast
We were invited to breakfast with some friends of B and A. Besides us, at the table was a German, Swiss, Scot, and a girl from Kansas. She and the German met in Zaire ( Congo). Children were born in Kenya, England, U.S., and Ghana (that would be Corban). It was certainly an international crowd. Most interesting and enlightening.
Random thought:
We are at a Baptist Guest House. Like similar places we have stayed, A/C is optional. If you want it, turn it on -- for 60 cents per hour. Report the number of hours used and add it to your bill. Honor system in use!
10 a.m.
Off to the pool. A very nice private club pool. Brett, Caden and Papa go swimming (instead of watching football). I had opportunity to visit with Roger Stoll, a friend of B and A from Albertville days (language school) and Danny, who is Swiss but now lives in Leeds, England. They are both team members of the same ministry -- Roger in the field and Danny on a "supervisory visit." Great people.
Observation
It is becoming clear to me that churches -- various traditions and denominations -- are far less parochial than in the past. I see it in the Kara team and the cooperative work they engage in with SIL, community development programs, and ministries sponsored by other denominations. My conversations with Roger and Danny reinforced this belief. Instead of focusing on how different our traditions are, more and more faiths are banding together for the cause of Christ. In many ways this spirit of unity is being led by missionaries across the world who recognize the need to work together so the Great Commission can be carried out. Did I digress again? Sorry. I'll get back "on task" after Thanksgiving dinner.
Our dinner was a grand buffet. Lots of turkey, mashed potatoes, stuffing, deviled eggs, etc. -- all the traditional fare.
Tomorrow we are off to Accra. Saturday we fly out for Frankfurt, Chicago, and then HOME. We have enjoyed and been blessed by our visit, but one always looks forward to being home. It seems like we have been here for a lifetime; but, it also feels like we just got here -- it's too soon to leave. What a paradox!
Good night!
P.S. Did I mention is is hot AND humid in Lome?!

Something to be thankful for!!

Gamma and Papa with Caden, Corban, April, and Brett just after Thanksgiving dinner.

A reminder of how much we have to be thankful for. These children were playing in the street (yes, that's a street!) within a block or so of the Baptist Guest House where we were staying.

Thanksgiving Day comes to a close. Tomorrow we're off to Accra.

The Long Road Home

Wednesday, Nov. 26, 2008

Departure for Lome went well -- ooops! Spoke too soon. Brett forgot has family's passports. Fortunately he thought of it before we had even left town. The trip was largely uneventful. Brett did all of the driving (as he has been doing). Driving in Togo is VERY stressful -- very few street signs; in fact, very little signage at all. No road markings to speak of. No shoulders on the roads, even on the National Hwy. to Lome. What there is a lot of is walkers, bikes, and motorscooters. They walk and ride as if they had a death wish! People walking with all manner of things on their heads. (Remember, no road shoulders.). Also, plenty of big trucks broke down for unsuspecting drivers to come upon. (Remember, no shoulders.) All in all it requires constant attention to the road by the driver. So far, no accidents.
We arrived at the Baptist Guest House in Lome about 3 p.m. Lome is a bigger version of Kara with drivers and walkers who are just as careless as those in Kara. After an evening meal, we went back to our rooms for a much needed rest. Tomorrow we celebrate Thanksgiving in a country that does not observe it. Will we be the only ones having turkey and dressing tomorrow?
That's all for now --- Good Night!

Trucks broken down along the National Highway are a common sight.

A dusty detour off the National Highway.

Yes, that's a goat on top of the taxi!

Brett made sure Joy was well supplied with Diet Pepsi. (It's not available in Kara, where they live.)

Papa and Corban at the Baptist Guest House in Lome.

We're on safari!

Tuesday, Nov. 25, 2008

Safari Day!! We were up early to go to the Sarakawa Game Reserve, hoping that the animals would be more active. We were rewarded for our effort -- many excellent sightings of animals. Among them were cape buffalo, eland, wildebeest .... the variety of God's creation is astounding! We were talking about why God saw aaneed for quite this much variety. He must have had something beyond man's understanding in mind. I understand the food chain concept -- little creatures eaten by bigger creatures which are in turn eaten by even bigger creatures .... (but, I digress.) Back to the safari. We had a glorious morning, so cool that Joy was thinking she needed her denim shirt. (First time she's thought about a long sleeve since leaving Germany.) Our driver and guide (and Brett) were sharp-eyed and spotted lots of wildlife. Our last day in Kara was off to a good start!

The rest of the day was scheduled for packing and prep for our Thanksgiving trip to Lome. Joy and April did most of the prep while Brett and I went to the Kennell's new house. Their container had arrived in Kara and needed to be unpacked ASAP. Mark had hired 5 Togolese men and then Matt, Dave, Brett, and I pitched in also. Many hands make light work. The Togolese men were young and strong and eager to work. They often carried things by themselves that would usually require 2 or 3 men. Someone commented that they were trying to show off and out-do each other. Maybe. But, I suspect they wanted to prove their strength and work ethic as a sort of resume to obtain work in the future. I have observed this in the Togolese. Antionette, Erique, etc. are always anxious to handle tasks. I may be reading too much into their attitudes, but it seems that many Togolese live on the edge of survival-- or once did-- so they do not want to squander any opportunity. Whatever the reason, the Togolese I have met have an excellent work ethic. (Again, I have digressed.) The Kennell's container was successfully unloaded in under 2 hours. Brett said the hired men probably were paid about 1000 CIFA which equals about $2. He said this would be a good day's wage for a young Togolese man.

Tomorrow we begin our long trip back to the U.S. We are hot; we are tired; we are richly blessed to have spent this time with B,A,C and C and seen first-hand why they are in Togo, West Aftica.

Sarakawa Game Reserve

Corban: Birthday Boy!

Monday, Nov. 24, 2008
Blogger's note: I have neglected my blog the past few weeks, partly because Brett and April are in the U.S. on furlough. I know when I go to blogs I am following, it is disappointing when it has not been update recently. Now I'm guilty! Sorry, I will try to make posts more often.

The team members came to Brett and April's to celebrate Corban's first birthday today. Joy and I were able to maintain our tradition of never missing a first birthday. This was definitely the farthest we have ever come for one! After a craft and gift opening, we got down to the serious business of cake eating. Corban carried on the Emerson family tradition VERY WELL -- he made a massive mess with chocolate cake all over himself. Great fun!!
By now, it's time "chill out" which is a very ironic expression here in Togo. Some (like Joy) had a little siesta. After a drive around Kara, we were off to the Millers for dinner. The Kennells just arrived in Kara so they are staying with the Millers for now ... let's see, that's eight adults and 8 children. It was a great time of fellowship. The team members are very welcoming and generous with their love and kindness. We have felt like members of the team because of the way they have included us so fully.

Observations
Today we were able to present Antoinette (the houseworker) and Erique (the day guard and yard man) with gifts -- 2 bags of rice and an old suitcase from Goodwill that we were leaving behind. Brett assured us that they would like them, and he was right. Both of them were very appreciative. Their faces lit up, and we truly felt the blessing of giving to others. Our gift to them turned out to be a gift to us also. Erique was quite excited about the suitcase. He told us he would use in when he comes to America!
Did I mention it's hot here? The need for an afternoon siesta is obvious. The heat simply drains one's energy. Brett and April have A/C in two rooms, but they rarely use it because it is so expensive. Their electric bill is more than their rent. Nashville gets pretty hot in the summer, but there is relief with A/C. Not here -- almost nothing is air conditioned. A/C -- another of those things we take for granted. Here in Togo it is really and truly a luxury.
Speaking of electricity: the power has gone out at least once a day while we have been here. It's not always for a long time, and Brett has a gas-powered generator. Of course, gas is something like $6 a gallon, so that can get expensive also.
Interesting note: Today Brett had to explain to Erique about furnaces -- it was a total surprise to him. That's life 300 miles north of the equator.
Good night!

I'm really delighted to celebrate my first birthday.

Mommy helps unwrap gifts -- looks like fun.

Cake in the face --an Emerson family tradition!

Papa and Corban.

April and her boys!
Joy and I with Erique and his family.

Sunday at Lassa Tchou

Saturday, November 22, 2008

Painting day!! Brett and April wanted "anything but yellow" on their long hallway walls. After a visit to what passes for a hardware, we found some beat up cans of paint to mix together. I cut in and Brett rolled. We finished by 5 p.m.

Sunday, November 23, 2008

We are up early today as worship time is 8 a.m. in Lassa Tchou. Brett says this is one of the stronger churches among the Kabiye people. This is due in part, I'm sure, to the way God has directed Jean Marie's life. He is a natural leader, well respected in his village, and a polished speaker. Even though I didn't understand his language, I understood his spirit and his love for God. Of course, it's not all about Jean Marie. The Christians at Lassa Tchou worship and praise God with enthusiasm and emotion. It was a richly rewarding experience -- one not soon forgotten! The Kabiye are a friendly, kind, and gentle people, and we enjoyed our time with them so much. They are a people who do not have much in the way of "stuff", but they are richly blessed spiritually. Makes me wonder how Western Christians can sit still in a pew every week.

Observations

Two firsts for me:

1- warm, homemade beer for communion
2- making change in the offering bowl

In both cases the Christians in Togo make due with what they have.

Have I mentioned how HOT it is?! Thankfully, God has lifted me up so that the heat has not interfered with the experience of being in Africa.

Corban was ONE today, but his party is tomorrow.

Good Night!


Jean Marie preaches to the Christians at Lassa Tchou. They are fortunate to have a building; last week we met under a tree. ( It was a nice, big, shady tree though!)



Kabiye Christians celebrate during worship. One of their songs says,"We no longer have to sacrifice because Jesus is our sacrifice." (or something very close to that. The gospel is truly "good news" to them.

The sweetness comes later / Friday, Nov.21, 2008

The mountain seems to get clearer every day. The harmitage (spelling??) -- dust storms -- are approaching. The winds bring dust from the deserts to the north. It rained the other night which has helped some.

Today, Brett and I go to N'Djei. We are taking a community development worker and his translator with us. We dropped them in the village and then we back-tracked to a border crossing to renew Joy's and my visas for another week. To say it was a slo-o-o-ow process would be quite an understatement.

I had two interesting experiences, both involving children. The first was when we returned to the village from getting our visas. There were numerous children along the road. Some were in uniforms which meant they were on their ways to or from school. We stopped to take pictures of a few of them. They were anxious to be photographed and to see their image on the digital screen! Soon children were flocking from all over, excitedly trying to get in a picture. Many were not in uniform which meant they could not afford to go to school. Unfortunately, those not getting an education far outnumbered those that were. The things we take for granted .....

The second experience involved two young Kabiye children who I will call "Chad" and "Amy." Back in the village, the community development program continued. I sat with Brett for awhile, not having a clue what was being said. (I can better appreciate how a non-reader feels in American society -- or a non-English speaker.) Back to the story. I eventually went outside to catch some breeze. Along came "Chad" and "Amy," interested in the white man with the camera. After a few minutes, they warmed up to having their photo taken. They seemed to want to communicate with me -- but how? Well, there was a stick and a bare patch of ground so I tried drawing pictures -- tree, house, animal, etc. Despite my poor art skills, "Chad" and "Amy" tried to copy my pictures. Then I said, "tree" and they said, "Doo" (not too sure about the "spelling, but Brett later confirmed that it sounded at least close to the Kabiye word for tree.). We went on to "house" and "sheep." Before long we were communicating -- no conversation, of course, but still communication! "Chad" and "Amy" will remind me of my experiences in Africa for some time to come. The photos I took of them are among my favorites from the trip. I wonder what lies in their futures? Praise God that my own Chad and Amy have had the benefit of a good education. Praise God also that they are using their education and their talents for the benefit of others.

Later that day ...... Brett, Joy, and I went out for a drive about 4-5:00. "Rush hour" in Kara is just as hectic as Nashville. Dodging scooters, bikers, and walkers is a challenge. Brett bemoans his Land Cruiser's size when driving around town in traffic. The congestion is more incredible than an American city because of the chaotic activity -- people bustling around, stepping out into traffic, ringing bells, honking horns, selling their wares .....

Later: When it's dark in Kara, it's DARK -- no street lights or well-lit buildings. Once one is off the main road, one is truly in the DARK. Walking around at night would be a dangerous endeavor, one which we didn't attempt.

Tomorrow: We paint! Good night!



View from Brett and April's roof. The dust storms have abated some. We can see the mountain again!!

Posted on the N'Djei church building. Translation: The family of Jesus at N'Djei. The sweetness comes later.

The village of N'Djei

A Peace Corp worker does a training session at the church building. The Kara team partners with other churches and volunteer groups to help the Kabiye. The woman on the left (in the front) is translating from French to Kabiye. Boy was I lost!

My two friends in N'Djei