First Leg Home: Lome to Accra

Friday, Nov. 28, 2008
Departing Lome
It was a descent into chaos, and, no, I'm not being melodramatic! Outdoor immigration stations, hot and dusty ... beggars, scam artists, "moneychangers" (CIFA's to CDI's, "I give you best rate"). A cacophony of sounds -- horns honking, people shouting, diesel trucks idling, children crying ... more dust, more noise, more forms in French -- Joy described it as "harrowing." Nevertheless, we exited Togo in about one hour's time and crossed into English-speaking Ghana. (Side note: the line of trucks waiting to enter Togo rivaled the truck lines at the Ambassador Bridge in Detroit!) Ah yes, English-speaking, far more modern than Togo.
Entering at Aflao
Sitting in the immigration station -- at least it is a real building. Chipped paint, rusty ceiling fans, exposed electrical wires, a hole in the wall, badly worn and soiled chairs, yellowed maps, faded photos and paintings ...and yet on a rickety desk are new Dell computers and officials in crisp, clean uniforms. Certainly a study in contrasts. Yes, Ghana is more modern than Togo, but everything is relative.
The road to Accra
Brett decided to take us the scenic route to Accra so we could see the Atlantic Ocean from the other side. It was generally uneventful though there were numerous "police stops" -- stations where the police stop your vehicle and may or may not give you a hassle. On one occasion, Brett used his "shame technique" -- "I am a visitor in your country and this is the way you treat me?!" (Side note: Ghanans LOVE uniforms. Everyone seems to wear a uniform. Even the door guard at the guest house wears a uniform -- his job: open and close the gate. We arrive in Accra. It is a teeming city of several million with many modern buildings under construction. Of course, a run-down shack may occupy the land in front of it. For example, we visited a brand new modern mall. Across the street were dozens of shanties with open-air shops...
P.M.
We ate at the food court at the mall -- sorta Accra, Ghana, meets Cool Springs, Franklin, TN. The brand new cinema was showing the new James Bond movie. Joy wasn't interested, so B and A went and I chaperoned them! The evening ended with a little excitement. Brett forgot the key to get back in the guest house. The night guard didn't have one, but he gladly climbed up onto the porch roof to knock on Joy's window. Imagine her reaction!! Nothing more needs said.
Did I mention that it's still HOT and HUMID?! Very sultry here on the coast.

Good night!
We reach the Togolese-Ghanan border.