The sweetness comes later / Friday, Nov.21, 2008

The mountain seems to get clearer every day. The harmitage (spelling??) -- dust storms -- are approaching. The winds bring dust from the deserts to the north. It rained the other night which has helped some.

Today, Brett and I go to N'Djei. We are taking a community development worker and his translator with us. We dropped them in the village and then we back-tracked to a border crossing to renew Joy's and my visas for another week. To say it was a slo-o-o-ow process would be quite an understatement.

I had two interesting experiences, both involving children. The first was when we returned to the village from getting our visas. There were numerous children along the road. Some were in uniforms which meant they were on their ways to or from school. We stopped to take pictures of a few of them. They were anxious to be photographed and to see their image on the digital screen! Soon children were flocking from all over, excitedly trying to get in a picture. Many were not in uniform which meant they could not afford to go to school. Unfortunately, those not getting an education far outnumbered those that were. The things we take for granted .....

The second experience involved two young Kabiye children who I will call "Chad" and "Amy." Back in the village, the community development program continued. I sat with Brett for awhile, not having a clue what was being said. (I can better appreciate how a non-reader feels in American society -- or a non-English speaker.) Back to the story. I eventually went outside to catch some breeze. Along came "Chad" and "Amy," interested in the white man with the camera. After a few minutes, they warmed up to having their photo taken. They seemed to want to communicate with me -- but how? Well, there was a stick and a bare patch of ground so I tried drawing pictures -- tree, house, animal, etc. Despite my poor art skills, "Chad" and "Amy" tried to copy my pictures. Then I said, "tree" and they said, "Doo" (not too sure about the "spelling, but Brett later confirmed that it sounded at least close to the Kabiye word for tree.). We went on to "house" and "sheep." Before long we were communicating -- no conversation, of course, but still communication! "Chad" and "Amy" will remind me of my experiences in Africa for some time to come. The photos I took of them are among my favorites from the trip. I wonder what lies in their futures? Praise God that my own Chad and Amy have had the benefit of a good education. Praise God also that they are using their education and their talents for the benefit of others.

Later that day ...... Brett, Joy, and I went out for a drive about 4-5:00. "Rush hour" in Kara is just as hectic as Nashville. Dodging scooters, bikers, and walkers is a challenge. Brett bemoans his Land Cruiser's size when driving around town in traffic. The congestion is more incredible than an American city because of the chaotic activity -- people bustling around, stepping out into traffic, ringing bells, honking horns, selling their wares .....

Later: When it's dark in Kara, it's DARK -- no street lights or well-lit buildings. Once one is off the main road, one is truly in the DARK. Walking around at night would be a dangerous endeavor, one which we didn't attempt.

Tomorrow: We paint! Good night!



View from Brett and April's roof. The dust storms have abated some. We can see the mountain again!!

Posted on the N'Djei church building. Translation: The family of Jesus at N'Djei. The sweetness comes later.

The village of N'Djei

A Peace Corp worker does a training session at the church building. The Kara team partners with other churches and volunteer groups to help the Kabiye. The woman on the left (in the front) is translating from French to Kabiye. Boy was I lost!

My two friends in N'Djei

Birthday Boy / Thursday, Nov. 20, 2008

6 a.m. - Time for early morning basketball. Must start early before the heat becomes unbearable. Brett told Joy I didn't embarrass myself .... I'll take that as a compliment!
We arrive home, but soon after Brett and April take Corban to the hospital to be tested for malaria because of a high temperature. (By evening we learned it was NOT malaria!)

The remainder of the morning was spent with Brett and his teammates -- the guys. It was their weekly "business meeting." I learned that the team strives to help the Kabiye with physical as well as spiritual needs. There was much discussion about well projects, community development activities and general benevolent work. This all comes out of their work fund, so the need for us in the U.S. to support work funds was very clear. Brett said they could easily use another $800/month in their work fund to help with this ministry. "Caring for the poor is true religion." (paraphrased from James)

Normally the wives have prayer time in the afternoon, but once a month the entire team meets for three hours of prayer followed by a meal. Babysitting assures that everyone is able to fully engage in the prayer time. Dave and Becky organized the prayer meeting this time. Following dinner, it was back home. With the boys in bed, we enjoyed a rousing game of Skip Bo.

Thoughts
* Corban is walking better every day. It's been quite a blessing to be here for that. He looks so much like Brett did. Yesterday morning (very early!) he sat on my lap and watched his "Praise Baby" music video. It was a tremendous bonding moment, and I was moved to tears.
* Did I mention tat it's HOT!? Actually I feel like I have been surviving the heat (90-100 daily) pretty well. One of my biggest concerns was how I would handle the heat. It is relentless, but I am adjusting OK. The heat just saps one's energy though. It has been cooling down at night at least; so, in the morning it's about 70 and seems chilly!
* The roads -- No one can imagine and photos can't adequately show just how bad the roads are!! They are deeply rutted and washed out. Rocks -- very large rocks -- threaten the undercarriage of any vehicle. (Yes, people, those missionaries do need those expensive, 4 wheel drive trucks!) This was one thing I was not prepared for -- the roads are so much worse than I would have imagined. Even in Kara there are few paved roads, and if they aren't paved then they are barely passable. No coffee for the road in Togo!

Good night.

Corban's first birthday

Papa and Corban

Rugged roads near Kara

Yaka Falls / Wednesday, November 19

Today was a "sightseeing" tour we have been looking forward to -- Yaka Falls. We traveled well into bush country, and then started to hike to the falls. It was an arduous journey through grasslands and rocky trails -- heaven help us if someone twists an ankle! Caden stuck with his daddy while Joy and I stuck with each other. I was really proud of Joy although I wish she had worn better shoes. She was a trooper during the 1-2 mile trek over rough terrain. We were greatly rewarded for our efforts -- a beautiful waterfall -- one that very few Americans have, or will ever, see. Sometimes God hides His creations and makes you work for them. His handiwork was fully evident here at Yaka Falls.

I worked on pictures in the afternoon. One 2 gb card full and one to go. Actually, I also have a 250 gb external hard drive so I shouldn't run short of memory. The evening was a time for rest and enjoying being with each other. Did I mention it's getting HOTTER!

Good night.
The terrain was rather rugged.

Brett and Caden lead the way.

Like most boys, Caden likes to collect rocks.

Views of Yaka Falls .... worth the hike!

Village visit / Tuesday, Nov. 18

Another nice cool morning! Today was our big trip to the market. It was essentially a giant flea market. Among the more exotic items were snake heads, various animal parts ..... flip flops, hardware items, clothes and food ...... you name it! After returning home we worked on April's new curtains (hung on the rods created by Nestor -- see Monday's post.)

Brett and I spent the afternoon with Jean Mari from the Lassa Tchou church. We got a tour of the village and learned a lot about their farming techniques, including making cheese from soybeans. Jean Mark is quite and entrepreneur according to Brett. He actually had a compound -- several mud huts for different purposes (sleeping, cooking, etc.) His most prized possession seemed to be his well. The missionary team is trying to help the Kabiye people with wells. They make life much easier and healthier. Jean Mari and his wife have no children of their own, but they take in numerous orphans. He has a goal to build a place to house more orphans and a place to have children's Bible classes on Sunday As Brett said, "He's a mover and shaker." He's also a good brother in Christ.

(The young lady in the top photo is a 13 year old orphan who was taken in by Jean Mari and his wife.)

In the evening we went to the Millers for team worship -- this time only adults. We all sang and shared things that were on our hearts. These four families are the "real deal."

Impressions / observations

1. Today we went to the bridge where Brett's first truck was wrecked by their mechanic who was joyriding. At the time it seemed (to me at least) that Satan was attacking them as they tried to get their ministry under way. Instead, God was glorified and B and A were blessed. A friend of Brett has someone who operates a foundation which helped them get and new truck -- one much more suitable for their needs.

2. It occurred to me today that Jean Mari would be surrounding God's throne and praising Him for eternity one day. God will gather together all His children -- whether they lived in comfort in Franklin, TN, or in abject poverty in Togo, West Africa. We will all be the same to HIM.

3. I'm becoming convinced that we should channel our resources for missions to Africa and other Third World nations where the gospel has literally never been heard. The people of these nations are very receptive to Jesus.

Time to go to bed. Did I mention that it's HOT???? The blessing is the nice cool mornings.

Good Night.....

It's hot! / Monday, Nov. 17

Very nice and cool this morning but quite hot (97 degrees) by late morning. Today we visited Codhani, a Goodwill-type organization that employs handicapped people to do handmade textile work. No "re-treads" like Goodwill though. These people are truly artists who create linens and other material the traditional way -- by hand. The designs are beautiful and unique. Joy bought several yards of material for a shirt and bag for us and for other gifts to take home. Tomorrow a tailor will come by the house to measure for my shirt. Afterwards we stopped by an ironworks artisan who is making wrought iron curtain rods for B and A. His name is Nestor and Brett has developed a strong relationship with him.
Internet is still down so we can't email our family and friends. I uploaded pictures from my camera to Brett's laptop while everyone else napped.
Dinner: April fixed nachos -- most of it from scratch. She has become quite a cook! After the kids went to to bed we map out plans for the rest of our trip -- several visits to villages for Brett and me . Tomorrow we go to the market.
Impressions
* Joy has found the poverty and living conditions to be much worse than she expected; however, I have seen about what I expected -- just more extensive than I imagined.
* Many Togolese dress very nicely despite their apparent poverty. Vehicles and homes are ramshackle at best. Yet they strive for cleanliness (Brett says they bathe regularly despite crude facilities) and decent attire. Western influence is evident. A trip down any road will reveal Togolese in both traditional tribal clothes or odd combinations of Western-style attire.
Did I mention it is hot?!! I've worked up quite a sweat writing in my journal. I look forward to a cool morning again tomorrow.
Good night.

This tapestry was created at Codani. It represents the idea that the weight of Africa is carried on the backs of the women.

Both of these men create works of art even though they are blind.

The material for my shirt was made at Codhani.

Rarely do houses have glass windows or screens.

Into the bush / Nov. 16,2008

Today we go into the bush to visit a small church at Tchipko. Rugged terrain is simply a gross understatement. The "road" gradually becomes a one-lane trail. Then the road gets worse! If there was ever a question about the need for a 4-wheel drive vehicle, it was answered -- YES! The good news -- no potholes; the bad news -- craters!!

The one hour and 20 minute drive included an unplanned visit to the neighboring country of Benin. Brett missed a turn -- the Togo hinderlands are lacking in signage. Upon arrival we learned from Dajaa, a leader of the church, that everyone else (~20 members) had gone to a Kabiye festival instead of church. (Here is would be a Titans game!) He had come alone to the "building" to pray and meditate. The "building" incidentally was a shady spot under a gigantic tree. "Pews" consisted of long (unpadded!) poles about 5 inches in diameter. They sat upon a rock or a larger piece of wood set on end.
After another one hour plus trip, we were back in Kara for lunch at one of the few restaurants Brett and April eat at. Excellent pizza and spaghetti.
At 4 p.m. things really got wild! Brett and April hosted the team church assembly. Four missionary families with 12-13 children, all under 10 or 11. We went to bed tired.
Impressions so far
*Many Togolese are poor by our standards but are not necessarily unhappy
*Brett and I talked about the chances of the people breaking the cycle of poverty. It seems like a tall mountain to climb. With only a 53% adult literacy rate, it's like climbing without any boots on. All the more reason they need Jesus. He gives them hope for the future and comfort for the present.

Good night

P.S. An addendum to my journal. Some statistics from UNICEF:
* GNI per capita $350
* Life expectancy at birth(males) 56 years
More later

Corban, April, and Joy sit on a "pew."

Dajaa, Brett, and me.

The road to Tchipko becomes the "bike path" to Tchipko.