Leaving West Africa

Joy makes a deal at the artisan's market.

Nov. 29, 2008

Our last day in West Africa -- we're sad to leave but glad to go home. We have been gone 19 days. Living out of a suitcase gets old!

AM

We went to the artisan's craft market in Accra in search of girfs and souvenirs. The merchants are quite the entrepreneurs. "Hello friend. See the excellent carvings I have." "Come to my shop. It's only two doors down..." They are VERY persistent--some would say they pester the shoppers. I'd say they just trying to feed their families. Joy was rather uncomfortable with the whole process which included "dickering" on price. But, with Brett's help, we got some good deals. Joy even got the knack of bartering.

Funny story: Joy, Brett, and I got a laugh over this. a busload of travelers from Finland arrived and the merchants swooped down on them. Later I was out taking a photo (surprised?). The sellers like to "make friends," and one young man said, "Friend, I love Finland." When I informed him I was from the U.S., he was crestfallen! (Not so funny??? You had to be there.)

In fact, that could be said about our entire African experience -- you really have to see it to understand it.

Afternoon

Rest time and some special time with Brett.

Accra International Airport

One final adventure. I mentioned earlier that Ghanaians use any excuse to wear a uniform. Apparently it represents authority and power to them, and they are a source of pride. Sometimes it goes to their heads -- like today.

Brett and April have a routine at the airport. He circles and she jumps out to be sure the flight is on time, etc. April came out as usual and we picked her up at a crosswalk. As we circled to drop us off, about 7-8 "uniforms" blocked our path and ordered Brett to pull over. He did, and they quickly booted his Land Rover. One came to the truck and said we had illegally picked up a passenger at a crosswalk. Brett argued his innocence, but no luck. Brett was informed he must pay 40 CDI's (about $36) or get towed. Brett went to the police station nearby and explained the issue to the chief. He finally walked down to settle the showdown. Still the "uniform" (apparently airport security) demanded that the 40 CDI's be paid -- directly to him. Sounds more like a bribe to me. With the police chief's assistance, the dispute ended. Brett got his truck unbooted without paying the "fine," and the "uniforms" saved face when Brett "made nice" and groveled. Joy was very shaken by the incident, and so we had an emotional farewell.

The next leg

As I write this, we are sitting in Lagos, Nigeria, picking up additional passengers for Frankfurt. Soon we will be on our way. It was 98 degrees in Accra today. Tomorrow it's supposed to be about 30 degrees in Germany.

We are now in Frankfurt. What a marked difference between here and Accra. Modern, climate controlled and the usual German efficiency in evidence. Soon we will be on our way to Chicago -- USA. Whoo hoo!

Enroute to U.S.

Just passed over Scotland. It looks like what I expected except for the snow-covered mountains. We will be over the Atlantic for quite some time. As I write this I am listening to Christmas music -- got to get in the mood; tomorrow is Dec. 1.

(Note: I didn't forget Nov. 30. I'm just not sure when it happened.) I re-set my watch as we pass over Labrador. We have traveled 3245 miles since leaving Frankfurt.

HOME!!

I'm still processing, but some notes and thoughts:

1. One has to admire the Togolese and Ghanaian entrepreneurial spirit. One day two guys stood in the middle of the road with a pile of dirt filling potholes for tips; the street hawkers tried to sell you anything , and they took their lives into their own hands doing it. At some intersections there might be 25-30 hawkers vying for a sale; and then there were the windshield washers -- some were middle aged and poor / some were 9 or 10 and poor.

2. Windshield washers: I'm not sure what is sadder -- a child dodging traffic to earn a tip or a grown man who is probably trying to feed his family. They rarely ask -- just begin washing and hoping you have some spare change. (Brett tipped them every time.)

3. Whoever is the distributor for corrugated sheet metal must be a rich person! Tin roofs, tin doors, walls, even windows (with hinges). Another thought: In the U.S. an old fashioned tin/steel roof was likely a sign of poor construction and poorer owners. In West Africa, a tin-anything is a step or two up from the ramshackle shacks many people must live in.

4. It's more than a little weird (and culturally challenging) to see Christmas decor for sale and Merry Christmas signs at the mall when there is blistering heat and humidity outside. (Yes, I did say mall. Accra has a new, modern Western-style mall.)

5. Just for the record: There are a lot more Caucasians in Ghana than in Togo. A white person was a rarity in Togo; not so in Ghana.

6. I'm just wondering what my brothers in Christ like Jean Marie, Jerome, and Dagaa did today after meeting to worship with their village church? I'm also wondering how Ernest's (the omelet man) son's eye problems are doing. Nestor the blacksmith ... Erique, Brett and April's yard worker ... Brett's friend from the artisan's market ... the Millers, Reeves, and Kennells ... all were part of our lives for a few short weeks. Who knows when, or if, we will ever see them again during our days on earth. But, one day we certainly will be reunited on the other side.

7. Our pilot says snow is in the forecast for Chicago with possible accumulation. What a difference a day makes!

8. Ironic note: After our experience at the Accra Airport, we saw public service announcements on TV urging Ghanaians to put an end to bribery and corruption. Apparently the airport police don't watch television!!

December 5, 2008 / Final reflections

It was almost a week ago when we were in Togo/Ghana's blazing heat. Today it was in the low 40's here. But, there is much more about Franklin, TN that is different from West Africa than just climate. I think it comes down to opportunity. The chances of improving one's living conditions are much greater here than in Togo. That said .....

Tonight we went to a Christmas concert by a wonderful violinist. She concluded with a very nice version of Silent Night in which the audience was encouraged to sing along. It reminded me that there are more important things in life than "living conditions" (translate: having nice stuff and being comfortable). Those of us singing Silent Night know the peace that comes through faith in Christ. So many need to know about that peace -- they are in Togo ... and here in Williamson County. "Peace on earth" should be an inner peace that comes from having a relationship with Jesus. It seems unlikely that the Kabiye people will have much in the way of creature comforts anytime soon, but they can-- and I pray will -- be able to know the Great Comforter.